Cape of Good Hope: the route to the Cape of Storms

Cape of Good Hope: a name that hides its dangers

The Cape of Good Hope was initially called Cape of Storms by the navigator Dias who first reached it, without being able to round it, arriving from Europe. Its calming name derives has nothing to do with prevailing weather conditions but from a secondary aspect that was much more important at the time. With the discovery of the Cape of Storms, the hope was concretely opened that the Indies could be reached by sea.

The King of Portugal John II, decided to change its name to “Cape of Good Hope”. It was the end of the fifteenth century, sighted by Dias in 1487, rounded by Vasco de Gama ten years later.

This was the time of the great explorations by sea by the Portuguese. By trying another route, the Italian Christopher Columbus discovered the Americas in 1492, initially thinking that he had already reached the distant lands of the Indies.

The three great capes: Hope, LLeewin and Horn

These are the three great capes that mark a non-stop circumnavigation. Starting from Europe, the first to round is precisely the Cape of Good Hope, we will soon talk about its dangers. It is the cape that marks the passage from the South Atlantic Ocean to the Indian Ocean and is located at 34 degrees South of latitude. The second cape that to be rounded is Cape Lleeuwin, which is much less known. This is because in reality those who undertake a circumnavigation pass much further south. This despite the fact that the cape is also at 34 degrees South, just like the Cape of Good Hope.

However, from a meteorological point of view it makes no sense to approach Australia to round cape Lleewin. Going north from the roaring 40s route you risk headwinds and areas of light winds. Those who plan their route will typically head for South East Cape, the southernmost tip of Tasmania located at 43 degrees South. Cape Lleuwin is therefore important merely for its geographical significance, its longitude marks the transition from the Indian Ocean to the Pacific Ocean.

For those planning a non-stop passage, they will have to consider South East Cape in Tasmania first, then Slope Point. This second cape represents the southernmost tip of New Zealand and is located at the latitude of 46 degrees South. From there the next target however is the most legendary and feared of all three capes, Cape Horn. The dreaded cape is actually a Chilean island marking the narrowest point of the Drake Channel. An island nestled between South America and Antarctica, a treacherous place for several reasons. In addition to weather conditions, the sudden rise of the Atlantic seabed from thousands of meters to a couple of hundred can create extremely dangerous sea conditions.

Capo di Buona Speranza - Global Ocean Race
The route followed during the 2011/2012 Global Ocean Race

Atlantic Ocean and Pacific Ocean meet at the Cape of Good Hope

Cape of Good Hope therefore marks the passage between the South Atlantic Ocean and the Indian Ocean. The dangers that characterise it are many and they certainly were for the first navigators who reached it sailing in unknown waters. From the point of view of the prevailing winds, the dreaded South-Eastern blows here, very often, a strong wind from the South East. It is clear that for the ancient sailing ships and clippers, approaching the Cape following the African coast meant encountering very strong headwinds.

This made the Cape often difficult to round despite several attempts. The short windows that open with different winds are fleeting, shut down quickly and the prevailing headwinds return. The South-Eastern is strengthened by the presence of the continent and is the distant echo of the south-east trade winds immediately south of the doldrums.

The long route from Europe to the Cape of Good Hope

In addition to the South-Eastern that we would encounter trying to round the Cape of Good Hope, the difficulties are several for those departing from Europe on this route. Starting from Northern Europe, we must first of all deal with the Bay of Biscay. This is the big bay between the French and Spanish coasts. The reason why it is a very treacherous area is due to two factors. The first of a practical nature, the traffic of fishing boats is considerable.

The second factor is the same that makes Cape Horn so dangerous, the sudden rise of the seabed. The storms that hit Europe bring before the cold front strong winds from the South-West. The winds make the sea rise and with the associated rising of the seabed it the seas becomes steep, with breaking waves and treacherous. We have to add to this that the wind then rotates to the North-West as the cold front passes. The new wind brings a new train of cross waves. When two waves add up, they can double in height compared to the average, which can be dangerous indeed.

Cape Finisterre

After crossing the Bay of Biscay the next turning point is Cape Finisterre. Here the wind tends to strengthen a lot with very strong prevailing winds from the North-East. 40-50 knots are normal intensity the rounding of the is not to be taken for granted. We have to add to this that all commercial traffic directed to North of Europe inevitably passes in front of this cape. In fact, there is a traffic separation zone to avoid which must be avoided in order to stay out of commercial shipping.

The Portuguese trades

The route to the Cape of Good Hope, from Cape Finisterre is still very long. However, there are some good news at this stage, we could in fact encounter the Portuguese trade wind – which is a local wind and must not be confused with the actual trades. This steady wind blowing from the north along the Portuguese coast. If we met it we can make fast progress to the South. This wind ends near the Strait of Gibraltar and we will still have to face many miles of navigation to get to catch the proper trade winds. The trades that blow from autumn to late spring from the North-West at a latitude between Canaries and the Cape Verde Islands.

Capo di Buona Speranza - Canarie
Canaries on the horizon in the haze of the African heat.

The transition zone between europe and africa

After the Cape of San Vincenzo, the southernmost tip of Portugal, the north wind fades rapidly. From there it will be necessary to negotiate the passage of the Canaries which are often surrounded by light winds. The weather conditions can lead to very different choices at each step. Often you end up staying far to the east, heading towards the Moroccan coast first and then towards the first of the Canaries. When we are near Lanzarote we will once again have to choose whether to pass between the mainland and the islands. Sometimes you can take advantage of an acceleration of the winds passing between Tenerife and Gran Canaria. In any case, the passage through such high volcanic islands is always delicate. Leeward of the islands are very large cones of disturbed and weakened winds from the islands. If the conditions allow it, you can definitely head west and pass outside of the entire archipelago.

Getting to the trade winds

Once you have passed the Canary Islands, you should gradually enter the area affected by the trade winds. Ocean race tackle this route in October/November when the trade winds are not yet fully formed as it is the case in January. For this reason, great gains can be made to find the fastest route to the trades. Getting to the trade winds first can mean maintaining this advantage up to the Cape of Good Hope.

The navigation in the Northwest trade wind north of the doldrums is the most pleasant. The free ride, however, does not last very long and the attention will be focused on deciding where to cross the Pot-au-noir. French name for the doldrums. This belt sees the north-west trade wind blow to its north, the south-east trade wind to its south. In the fall the belt is situated at approximately 6-7 degrees North. therefore it is encountered before the equator along our route to the Cape of Good Hope.

Capo di Buona Speranza - caldo africano
The unbearable heat before finding the trade wind

Cape Verde islands

The Cape Verde islands are right in the trade winds. Considerations regarding possible accelerations to be exploited and shadow cones to be avoided also apply to these islands. Many choose to pass to the west of the archipelago, others end up crossing them. On the way to the Cape of Good Hope this is one of the many choices we have to make.

Capo di Buona Speranza - verso il pot au noir
The end of the trade winda near the doldrums

The doldrums

If you wanted to find a new synonym for the word frustration, pot-au-noir or doldrums would be fitting. The navigation in the trade winds stops quite quickly with a sudden drop in the wind. From here on you will struggle with light winds trying desperately to cross a belt of less than 200 miles of unpredictable winds. After the light winds you meet squalls and gusts of wind with very violent meteorological events. The problem is that everything changes suddenly, from nowhere a cloud overwhelms you with 30 knots of wind and then spits you out into the calm. All this is even before you even had the time to finish putting in your reefs!

Capo di Buona Speranza - Pot au noir
A sudden squall in the doldrums

We must insist and gain ground to the south, at all costs. As soon as we hear the first gust of headwinds we will know we are almost there. These weak winds from the south-east are those symmetrical to those we left when exiting the north-west trade wind. Mile after mile they will stabilise and strengthen until they are strong and stable. Southeast is exactly the route we should take to go to Cape of Good Hope. This means that instead of heading straight towards the goal we are forced to make a very long additional detour to get to our destination.

Capo di Buona Speranza - Equatore
Celebrations when crossing the equator

Crossing the equator

The passage of the Equator is more a symbolic moment than a real stage from the point of view of the navigation. Leaving the doldrums on our way to Cape of Good Hope we will be sailing at speed in the trades when crossing the equator with all the time for a little celebration. Offering Neptune an alcoholic drink is a good omen and in the boredom of the trade winds a tradition that can be respected as a moment of relaxation.

Capo di Buona Speranza - Fernando da Noronha
A few of Fernando da Noronha.

Fernando da Noronha

Cracking slightly the sails and l